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Natalia Ilyin Speaks Up
I first met Natalia Ilyin during a graduate seminar at UW. A designer and design critic, she talked with us about her great interest: the contemporary mythic imagery and symbols that designers manipulate, interpret, and act upon—often unconsciously.

In one of her seminar lectures, she prompted us to look more deeply into advertisements from Clairol, Banana Republic, and the Gap. One of the exercises involved observing the images in a Banana Republic ad, in which a svelte African woman (perhaps Nigerian or Ethiopian) stood with her signature Banana-khaki outfit in front of a 1930s era propeller plane. In the background, a golden wheat field filled the scene. We made visual judgments about the ad and the accompanying images from the campaign: the juxtaposition of the 1930s plane and a very modern outfit seemed ironic, even out of place; the woman wore a digital watch, it had to be present day; and the plane could have never landed in such a hilly and thick area without sustaining some damage. As a Midwesterner, I realized something too: judging by the wheat fields in the background, she can’t be in Africa, it looks more like Nebraska or Iowa. Another professor agreed, “With those hills and wheat, it looks a lot like Alberta to me.” Bottom line: this ad worked by stitching together our visual assumptions, but on closer inspection fell apart at the seams.

The experience opened my eyes by demonstrating how designers can act as critical agents, who take apart, examine, and comment on visual culture. Ilyin has been doing this for some time now. She has taught at Yale and Cooper Union, and currently teaches at RISD, Maine College of Art, and University of Washington. Her articles on design and the media have appeared in the New York Times, International Herald Tribune, Miami Herald, and Portland Oregonian. She’s a contributor to the design press, and her work appears in the anthologies, Sex Appeal: The Art of Allure in Graphic and Advertising Design; Design Culture; Looking Closer 2; and Looking Closer 4. Her first book, Blonde Like Me: The Roots of the Blonde Myth in Our Culture, was published by Simon and Schuster in 2000.

She continues her unique approach to criticism—a mix of memoir and academic writing—in the forthcoming, Chasing the Perfect: Thoughts on Design in our Time, due out from Metropolis Books this Fall. In this latest book, she confronts Modernism—challenging its ideals and questioning how our culture perceives and experiences its messages. How did a once avant-garde movement become a means for creating desire? What is real and what is perfect? Recently, I had the chance to exchange thoughts on these and other notions with Natalia.

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ARCHIVE ID 2281 FILED UNDER Interview
PUBLISHED ON Apr.21.2005 BY Jason A. Tselentis
WITH COMMENTS
Comments
Bradley’s comment is:

My comment is only somewhat relevant to this interview, but given that there's a lot of talk about knowledge and recognition here, its worth pointing out that Hitler killed 11 million people. Six million were Jews. 5 million were of other origins.

It's nobody's fault--but our society really does perpetuate a lot of "incomplete" information and finding truth can be EXTREMELY difficult.

What is it about the world we live in, or at least in the USA? I find this culture to be indifferent and narcissistic--we worship that no-talent ass clown Paris Hilton with reckless abandon, and treat Donald Trump as a business guru even though his casinos once again face bankruptcy. There are more news outlets now than ever before, yet they're all based on abbreviation and entertainment, not curiosity and information.

I think there are MANY designers out there doing work that confronts their audiences with the real issues, the real facts, the real outcomes. But if nobody wants to listen, what do you do then? Or what if they're simply unable to hear in the first place?

On Apr.21.2005 at 11:27 AM
Jason Tselentis’s comment is:

I think there are MANY designers out there doing work that confronts their audiences with the real issues, the real facts, the real outcomes. But if nobody wants to listen, what do you do then? Or what if they're simply unable to hear in the first place?

For those doing work that confronts real issues, it's a hard, challenging, and tortured road. Surely, they ask themselves those same questions, but continue their work because of one reason that drives them. Each of us has that one thing. It's personal and unique, driving one to hold firm to values. Much of Natalia's writing errupts out of her values and beliefs. I hope that some will get the chance to become familiar with her work, and ask themselves what they value.

On Apr.21.2005 at 12:33 PM
Gunnar Swanson’s comment is:

Natalia has written eloquently about how graphic design culture hobbles graphic design’s progress and she’s right that music is one of the models worth looking to. (It’s interesting how many interactive designers I’ve known started off as musicians.) It is worth expanding on her statement—

I’d have them work more communally in school: in more groups during their education.

The structure of most educational institutions works against doing this as is really needed. Since like people are grouped together a group project ends up with the equivalent of eight lead guitarists working together.

And for the off-topic rhythm section:

Hitler killed 11 million people. Six million were Jews. 5 million were of other origins.

Of course this is about the death camps. If you count the war he set off, Hitler can get credit for more than 30 million deaths. There’s some amount of question on camp numbers. Credible estimates seem to range from just less than 11 million to just over 13 million. The latter, slightly lower estimates seem to be winning out but this is not a personal obsession of mine so don’t trust my take on that. Jews were the largest group represented in the death camps but probably slightly less than half the deaths in the camps.

Recent research brings Stalin’s score much higher than previously thought so he could win the Death Derby after all, depending on who is counting what. Does Pol Pot still have the bronze or did he test positive for EPO?

On Apr.21.2005 at 03:14 PM
Natalia’s comment is:

Not to let the conversation dissolve into a "my dictator killed more people than your dictator" conversation, but Bradley has an excellent point here about the difficulty of finding "truth." Particularly today, when all web sites look somehow "equal," and the "truth" of some neo-marxist site seems as true as the "truth" of the Columbia University Slavic Department site. When you google "Stalin's murders" you get lists between 25 and 40 million people. That's a tremendous range-- what is true there? I got the nine million number from what happened in the Ukraine during the "false famine."

The exact total number of persons affected remains uncertain and depends on how the count is made, especially depending on the time period considered and whether deaths related to the Gulag and transportation losses are included.

In this search for exactitude, Stalin's quote is the real truth, no? We're playing with statistics here, ignoring the massive human sadness of all of these numbers because that sadness is too painful. If we really let it in, it would affect the way we deal with the world. It would affect the way think, what we value, the way we design. And what would the result of that be?

As far as nobody wanting to listen: well. You don't need everyone to listen. But refusing to put your own truth (preferably well-researched) out there gives no one a chance to listen.

On Apr.21.2005 at 03:14 PM
Peter’s comment is:

NI: You’ve just said it. I’d have them work more communally in school: in more groups during their education.

Why is this a good idea? Design by committee generally produces crap. Having seen education up close through my son's school, I would say teamwork and communal education are relentlessly over-emphasized. This is the typical trajectory of an educational fad. It's much more important that a student learn to face a blank sheet of paper alone.

On Apr.22.2005 at 06:05 PM
Gunnar Swanson’s comment is:

Why is this a good idea?

Because it’s the way the big, interesting, and important projects will get done.

Design by committee generally produces crap.

Because people don’t know how to work with teams.

I would say teamwork and communal education are relentlessly over-emphasized.

Pretend teamwork and communal posing are what are overemphasized

On Apr.22.2005 at 06:13 PM
Jason Tselentis’s comment is:

It's much more important that a student learn to face a blank sheet of paper alone., huh? I can see the value of creating and visualizing under self-driven circumstances, but a select few have the ability and drive to work as 100% solo designers, and they're more artists than anything else. Design students won't be working alone in their professional practice, so if they like that kind of caged environment they're in the wrong field.

On Apr.22.2005 at 08:32 PM
Franz’s comment is:

The practical circumstances of a designer's work predicates an ability to work with others and deal positively with the inevitable compromises. That reality does not make a designer socially responsible, which is what I take Natalia's comment I just wish designers would open their eyes a bit. I would like to see them take some responsibility for the ways their work affects real people in the world… to mean. Whether in a group or individually, it is meaningless to teach future designers a sense of social responsibilty if there isn't a supporting environment outside of academia to make those lessons real. Designers have the ability (and the responsibilty!), to foster and construct an environment that reflects a truth that will not allow the murder of however millions of innocent people be confused with a statistic. We have to sleep in the bed that we've made like it or not. If not, then we have to change it today and not hope that future generations will somehow, miraculously, get a clue and do the hard work for us, just to satisfy our ideals.

On Apr.23.2005 at 12:31 AM
Armin’s comment is:

> Whether in a group or individually, it is meaningless to teach future designers a sense of social responsibilty if there isn't a supporting environment outside of academia to make those lessons real.

On most given days I would pesimistically agree with that comment. However I do think that if you can instill a sense of social responsibility, a desire for collaborative efforts and other sort of good things in students they will be able to form that "supporting environment outside of academia" once they go out in the world. You can't program a student to be any of these things but you can try to teach them the sensibility.

**

As a side, complimentary note, good interview Jason. And thanks Natalia for your time. I enjoyed reading it.

On Apr.23.2005 at 09:52 AM
Elizabeth’s comment is:

Jason--loved the interview. It was great to read the perspectives of such an accomplished and strong female designer.

Regarding the design student's need for a better understanding of socially-aware contexts, I wonder where this education comes into play in art school. I started off as a liberal arts student and transferred to art school later, so naturally my previous education in literature, sociology, and history was a bit more prevalent in my student work. But I think that as long as the form is taking precedence in design education, designers are going to remain uncomfortable with launching into full academic analysis of topics that stray too far from the "I'm making something that looks cool comfort zone."

Most of the art students I went to school with fall back on their art as 'visual masturbation' (as my favorite prof used to call it) because the outside world is pretty daunting for those who've had no experience with it. And sadly, I don't think that most design students are first-and-foremost interested in the broad cultural comments they could be making with design. How many students did I graduate with who weren't even registered to vote? How many senior projects did I see where gazing at their own narcissistic reflections in mirrors of their own making was the primary message?

On Apr.23.2005 at 12:28 PM
Peter’s comment is:

Because it’s the way the big, interesting, and important projects will get done.

Perhaps this is a bit over-categorical. I can think of many big, trivial, boring projects; as well as some small ones that are pretty interesting. Unless, of course, this is only about bucks.

Design students won't be working alone in their professional practice, so if they like that kind of caged environment they're in the wrong field.

I can see your point if the design student ends up working in a big corporate in-house environment; or one of those monster design firms we hear about occaisonally. They may never be required to come up with a concept on thier own. However, if the student ever has their own professional practice, the ability to come up with concepts on their own is valuable and neccesary. After all, we're supposed to be creatives, right?

On Apr.25.2005 at 08:28 AM